The Weekender: Venice

Our publisher seeks solace in an enchanted city in a state of flux.  

I was 18 when I fell in love with Venice. Thirty-odd years later I remain as enchanted. I really don’t like crowds and so my relationship with this magical city is almost like that of a chastised lover. I couldn’t live there, I’m welcomed irregularly and when visiting I must wake before everyone else to walk the empty streets and marvel at the empty canals, the only witnesses being the laundrymen and those delivering supplies to the hotels and restaurants.  

I move in the shadows, trying to avoid the sun and the gaze of those who seem to move en masse. Going during the Biennale is only a guarantee for still more people and of course more art although not the kind I tend to appreciate. I am easily distracted from most exhibitions by the remarkable beauty and authenticity of Venice’s architecture and waterscapes.  

The Hotel Danieli (Riva degli Schiavoni, 4196, 30122 Venezia VE, Italy), one of Venice’s grand old establishments recently started a major refit and will soon be part of The Four Seasons. I wanted to experience this property one last time before her transformation, which I’m excited about. Such hotels give me a sense of staying with an eccentric aunt, someone who is oblivious to what has happened in the world in the last 50 years and therein lies the charm. One is stepping back in time when one chooses to call the Danieli home for a few days. I was graciously upgraded to a suite that looked out across the water at San Giorgio Maggiore. 

This location is perfect for venturing along to the Biennale which I did to see only a handful of the pavilions. I find the architecture of these mini-exhibition halls often better than the works they contain. Having survived an hour in the contemporary and modern-art-loving mass, I returned to the solitude of the top-floor restaurant that enjoys some of the best views in Venice. The seafood risotto was wonderful and the martini, shaken, not stirred. No matter how late I go to bed, when in Venice I get up at six-ish to wander the streets and capture the city slowly coming to life in the gentlest of light. It is the only time of day other than very late at night when San Marco is empty of both pigeons and people. I find it, when almost empty, to be the most romantic.  

On this visit I was invited as a birthday gift, I think, by my favourite Austrian, Ms H, to dinner at Local and as local as the produce was, it was like no other meal I’ve ever had in Venice. It comes then as no surprise that Michelin awarded it a star. The advantage of dining solo is one not only interacts more with the staff, the chef and the owners but one can also focus more on the food although I admit this was so good I wish I could have shared the experience with the gracious gift giver.  

The next day I had lunch at Quadrino Bistro (P.za San Marco, 122, 30124 Venezia VE, Italy), which is on the main square. It is perfect for fabulous food but also for people watching. There is a restaurant a level or two above but the bustle, from behind ancient glass, at street level I find wonderful.  

The first time I discovered this floating city I walked in the opposite direction of wherever everyone was gathering or heading and quite by chance stumbled upon Trattoria alla Madonna. It’s where I first tried vegetables, steamed and seasonal and ever so delicious just with a drizzle of oil. Their seafood rice is a must if they have it on the menu and I chased that down with a simply Venetian dish of liver and onion. I think I’ve ordered the same food since I first sat down in this restaurant three decades ago.  

For my last night I moved to the Nolinski Venice, the newest and most breathtaking of five-star boutique hotels. It is faultless. Truly. And I can’t remember when or even if I’ve ever said this of a hotel. Perfect location, impeccable design and styling, wonderful art hanging, beautiful uniforms on the friendliest staff and food that takes hotel dining in Venice to a lofty, new level. The plunge pool on the sixth floor I think is the highest pool on the main island and as much as the views are enchanting at sunset of San Marco while one rests tired feet, it also happens to be an incredibly sexy space.

The courtyard Caffe is pure perfection and a retreat, an oasis away from the jostling crowd. I had an artichoke salad, impossible to dress it better, followed by the best gnocchi I’ve ever eaten. And a Martini, of course. But it must be the main dining room that takes the cake. I can think of no more striking a restaurant space in all of Venice and that’s saying something. Breakfasts in most five-star hotels are fabulous but I don’t eat breakfast, normally. On this occasion I’m glad I did after wandering around at dawn and working up an appetite. My intention was to simply sit in the double-height space and order a rooibos tea but then I discovered their poached eggs with Parmesan. Breakfast will never be the same again. And going forward I will measure all hotels I stay in against the Nolinski Venice. Bravo!  

Thank you, PK’s List for arranging this and to Olimpia Possati for the best recommendation.  

This article originally appeared in Billionaire's Longevity Issue. To subscribe, click here.